If you have to reflash a device to use it with HA, please add that to the Notes column.This is a list of devices and software that work with Home Assistant (HA) with minimal aggravation. Please list stuff that doesn't work, too.Things to think about before choosing between WiFi, Zigbee and Z-Wave.Mitsuru Yamada has updated the log for CMOS Homemade Operational Amplifier.Dennis has updated the project titled The Open Eye.Mitsuru Yamada has updated details to CMOS Homemade Operational Amplifier.Michal has added a new log for NEDbook.lion mclionhead has updated the project titled Standing desk remote control.Steve Hernandez liked Nuclear Magnetic Resonance for Everyone.Keith has updated the log for EF9365 / EF9366 / EF9367 video.cliff claven on Hackaday Links: May 28, 2023.Russ Reed on Minecraft In Minecraft On The CHUNGUS II.The Commenter Formerly Known As Ren on Electronic Connect 4 Console Doesn’t Use LCD.Ian on Minecraft In Minecraft On The CHUNGUS II.The Commenter Formerly Known As Ren on Hackaday Links: May 28, 2023.Bill on Hacking A “Smart” Electric Toothbrush To Reset Its Usage Counter.Jonathan Wilson on Hackaday Links: May 28, 2023.notmyfault2000 on Minecraft In Minecraft On The CHUNGUS II.This Week In Security: Gitlab, KeyPassMini, And Horse 6 Comments Most of these cheap WiFi Tuya based Switches and even the higher end Z-Wave/ZigBee Switches and Lights use a small crude Power Supply with a Current Limit to power the Micro Controller either at 3.3V or 5V. A single Diode would only make it a Half-Wave and would be a dirty DC signal and would require tons of smoothing either by a Pi Filter or a massive Capacitor. That Resistor would be massive and would still be toasty. It’s basically a Electro-Mechcanical OR Gate controlled by a Micro You would think a Resistor and Diode is all you need but not even close. Then you go back and hit the Smart Switch again it will then put GPIO1 LOW but since GPIO2 is still HIGH it will give you a ON state. So if the Smart Switch turns on the Light and puts GPIO1 HIGH and you go to the end of the hall and use a dumb switch to turn it off then GPIO2 goes HIGH and GPIO1 is still HIGH. That is achieved with a Relay that is controlled from the switch leg and tells a GPIO pin the state of that Relay’s OPEN/CLOSE state and will in turn give you a conditional output. Put it anywhere else and it will turn off or end up with a Disco/Rave Light. Same thing can control the brightness of a LED Array in a bulb or whatever.Ī lot of the cheaper WiFi Switches can control a three way / four way circuit with a single switch as long as the switch is made for 3way and is on the beginning of that circuit. Some Devices will have another GPIO that will control a RGB LED via PWM to give a indication of the Light. The Device knows if the Relay is ON or OFF by the state of the GPIO pin that is controlling the Relay. The only reason why you need the 110 line is to power the Micro Controller inside the Device and to pass the Live/Hot through a Relay to the rest of the circuit. I’ve even installed some expensive PoE controlled Lighting. I’ve used cheap Tuya Devices, Z-Wave, Zigbee and also used Tasmota/ESPHome on some Tuya Devices that use the ESP8266. I’ve done a wide assortment of Smart Home deployments using Control4 to Home Assistant. Posted in Misc Hacks Tagged ESP8266, IoT, relay, smart light, smart switch Post navigation As always, if you’ve got your own neat smart lighting hacks, be sure to let us know! If you’re using standalone smart bulbs, however, you could consider flashing them with custom firmware to improve functionality. This system lets you use smart lighting with traditional switches with less confused flipping, which is a good thing in our book. This supply feeds into a GPIO pin on the ESP8266, letting it know the light’s current state, and allowing it to set its output relay to the correct position as necessary. When the light is on, the 3.3V supply is on. This is done by using a 240V to 3.3V power supply wired up in parallel with the light. To make this work with the ESP8266, though, the microcontroller needs to be able to know the current state of the light. However, it’s wired up with a regular light switch in a typical “traveller” multiway switching scheme – just like when you have two traditional light switches controlling the same light at home. The method is demonstrated here by, in which an ESP8266 is used with a relay to create a basic smart switch. Thankfully, with some simple wiring, it’s possible to make everything play nice. However, they can make day-to-day living more frustrating if they’re not set up properly with regards to your existing light switches. Smart switches are fun, letting you control lights and appliances in your home over the web or even by voice if you’re so inclined.
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